Things are pretty manly at the Parts & Service Bar and Grill.
The Michelada is made with Bad Hombre beer from Next Level. The Man-Mosa, a pint of sparkling Cava wine and orange juice, contains a full dose of vodka. On a recent visit, two TVs hanging on the wall showed the original Point Break with closed captioning, half viewed by a group of pals wearing denim vests and Vans.
Presumably, what brings someone to Parts & Service is the love of motorcycles, which forms both the theme and the decor, from the logo to the classic pork on display in the center of the room. But you don’t have to know choppers or pigs to fit in. It’s a friendly biker bar, and regulars are up for talking dogs, photography, even a little light politics.
If it’s not the bikes that bring you, then it must be the smoked brisket. Bar chef Sage Houser used to work as a smoker at nationally recognized Matt’s BBQ in Portland, Texas. That means Parts & Service could be your secret meat tie back in the days when Matt’s line spanned boulders in the northern Mississippi.
Houser’s chest certainly stands on its own, however. It’s both fat and smooth and deeply juicy. Wrapped in a corn tortilla and lightly dusted with homemade red and green sauce, the taste is a little piece of beef heaven. Pulled pork is also a delicious and salty bite, although a little hard to distinguish from the brisket.
On Sunday, the smoked portobellos were sold out. On-site bar staff said most weekend cigarettes are Thursday, so a visit earlier in the weekend could result in earthy traffic jams. But they had fried cauliflower wings for the indulgent vegans.
At $ 5 a taco, Parts & Service is charging higher prices than expected. It makes sense for the smoky fare, but the cocktails, while perfectly serviceable, struggled to hit their $ 10 price point. There aren’t even any vegetables or pickles in the Bloody Mary. Instead, the garnish is a citrus double of lime and lemon, which looks weirdly wrong. But the pour is as sturdy as the large salt flakes around the rim of the glass. When revisiting, beer is probably the way to go.
At the moment, the Parts & Service floor plan is too open to look like a secret dive. On the contrary, the bar presents itself as a friendly neighborhood corner, although expensive. There is even a sign, printed at home but laminated, affixed to the outside: âDear customers, it is written. âAs a courtesy to our neighbors, please refrain from speeding up, exhausting or speeding. “
TO DRINK: Parts and Service Bar and Grill, 2940 NE Alberta St., partsandservicepdx.com. 3 p.m. to midnight Monday to Friday, 11 a.m. to midnight Saturday to Sunday.